Ageing

Theatrical ageing is about emphasizing the lines we get as we get older. I used a greyish brown colour to draw the lines and asked my model to pull faces to show off natural lines for me to enhance for example forehead under eyes nose chin and mouth. After I had drawn on the lines I blended outwards and highlighted with the kryolan eyeshadow 'anis' but I did loose some of the lines so I had to re drawn them then tidied up with foundation. In TV and films they do not use white colour for face - mix it with a little bit of yellow.  I put foundation over my models lips to make them look dry and to finish the look I used Kryolan Tooth enamel with a baby bud to apply  to the teeth. I'm pleased with the outcome and enjoyed creating the look although I would like to expand on it and use latex to wrinkle the skin. 

Modern Victorian hair

List of products/material used.

• Mac lip mix package;
• Mac mixing medium package;
• Mac glitter (gold);
• Mac brush 263;
• Urban Decay Palette (Naked 2);
• Illamasqua Matt Primer;
• Illamasqua Loose powder (010);
• Illamasqua skin base foundation (01);
• Illamasqua sculpting powder duo;
• Illamasgua cream blusher (libido);
• Illamasqua blusher duo;
• Illamasqua reflection palette;
• Illamasqua neutral palette;
• Charles fox mini lop rouge palette 16 colours (lmp101);
• RCMA foundation palette (vk11);
• Charles fox supra palette 12colours (FP);
• Charles fox aqua palette 12 colours (fp)
• Sigma brushes (F50, F20, F25,F10, E45, E10, E35, E20, L05, E25, E15, F75, F50, F65, F35, F15)
• Gellatine;
• Gelax;
• Glycerine;
• Liquid Latex;
• Fixer spray;
• Kryolan tooth enamel

modern victorian hair

Firstly Create middle parting hair slightly off the center  then Create 3 curls on one side 2 on the other using a curling wand After you create each curl pop a grip to keep it in place Start sectioning the hair at the back into a brick work Hair on the sides needs to be taken towards the face and create volume bu pulling outwards I liked creating this look as it was fun and quite simple to do although to improve I should have tightened the sides with my grips so It looked more professional.

The next step was to undo the grips and roll up and re pin the bottom rolling the hair up, when your removing the hair in the front pull the hair back and twist into twirls 

Then you remove all the pins and slightly brush the hair out to give a look full of volume.

Estella

For Estella I wanted to portray her during her domestic abuse with an old black eye with fresh complexion. I used kryolan foundation pallet and powdered with illamasqua loose powder to set then contoured with kryolan bronzed colour added kryolan peach lipstick. I used kryolan eye shadow pallet to create the black eye I used that instead of supra colour as I wanted it to look like an old one I then added bags under the eyes to show that she is physically and emotionally drained over all I liked the make up but I would of made the black eye slightly different as I dont think it shows up as well on photos.

For the hair I sectioned it into two pony tails at the back then rolled it up pinned in place and wrapped hair around to join them I also did a center parting but with the hair pulled off the face I then messed it up slightly to show that shes been roughed up.

Creating light scaring, using molds, how to attatch to the skin

Products needed are molds, gelatine- fresh coloured, petrolise, Vaseline, Prosaide,Cotton buds, Pro clean remover, Witch hazel,Translucent powder, brushes, Supracolor, Moisturiser,  Fake blood And Fixer spray.

Molds are useful on film sets and used alot for continuity a you can use the mould more than once and if your unable to do a scene another makeup artist could use the mold. There made from flesh coloured gelatin which is made in different skin tones. To re use the mould you can spray them before and after with petrolise which  is a release spray and can be used on silicone or latex is usually used in molds a cheaper options is using Vaseline. 

Firstly I applied Prosaide to the skin which is a contact glue which is a milky white colour but dries clear and I used a cotton bud to clean around the other areas. I waited for it to dry clear then pressed it down firmly so it stuck. With a cotton bud I cleaned and blended in around the edges which didnt work out that well as I found it difficult as I didn't wait for it to dry as much as i tried to blend it either broke. I feel I need more practice doing that. I then began to fill it in with supra colour blending outside the cut and and adding dirt to the center I then added blood to the outside. Once I had finished I removed it with Pro cleaner remover as the glue would of stayed on my models arm. I softend it by using witch hazel and a warm cotton wool.

Another look I created  was a bullet wound I used liquid latex and tissue paper to layer up the wound and give it texture

This was the first of the process. I used a hair dryer on cool to build up the layers quickly then covered in tissue creating a ditch in the center. I used supra colour  to paint the wound although I do like the end result it does look very theatrical and I would hope to go back and try and create a realistic looking wound. My favorite aspect is the actuall hole as it worked out better than I thought It would. Next time i would blend the colours more and dab some of the products off.

dark eyes and lips

Eye shadow

Pencil eyeliner

Mascara

False eyelashes-optional

Eyeshadow brushes

Blending brushes

Cotton buds

Tissue or loose powder

Lip liner

Lip sticks

Lip gloss

Lip brush

Use primer on the base of the eyes I used smash box primer, foundation then powdered. 

Then I applied ginger from the kryolan eyeshadow palled over the eyelid with a round brush in circular movements and blending into the creases. Once I Did one eye I did the other so that each stage would be even. I had my model to open and close there eyes their eyes so you can see the shape I was creating using a cotton bud I removed any loose powder that fell down. I did place a tissue under the eyes to catch any loose powder that fell. 

I built up the colours going from light to dark using the darker colours on the outer half of the eyelid. I used a patting motion to apply the product and small circular to blend. 

Then I applied dark eyeliner pencil to the lash like Then I used eyeliner on the waterline I then used mascara and then tidied up using foundation and concealer then powdering to finish the look 

I used eyeliner to create the lip shape I wanted then I applied the lipstick with a lip brush Using a lighter shade in the center of the lips to make them look fuller but you have to make sure it looks natural to finish I blotted with the tissue and then added more layers of lipstick Then I used lipgloss to finish.

Victorian hair styles tests

Products needed 

Pin tail comb

Kirby grips

Hair pins

Medium curling tongs

Afro comb

Paddle brush

Just A simple plat as I've noticed many Victorian hair styles incorporate platts

Firstly I sectioned the hair curled each piece back combed and rolled with my finger to create the roll which I do feel I wil l use again as its an effective look and works well. the next look I did was a victorian styled hair up I sectioned the hair rolled into four pieces and pinned. I think it was helpful going over these hair styles as it was alot of the styles I was using for my final. You can take these simple looks and adapt them into different hair styles.
for the third image I sectioned the hair curled the top rolled with my fingers back combed and pinned leaving equal gaps inbetween then for the bun I put it into 4 sections rolled in pinned and pulled them closer together to finish the look I curled the bottom hair. 

Final Mrs Haversham

These are my two photoshoots from my timed assessment I am pleased with the out come I really like how the lips turned out and I enjoyed doing them I do feel that my contiuity with the hair could be improved as the 'bow' I created at the back dropped which is disapointing but I've learned that you have to make sure the hair is exactly the same texture each time to re create it exactly.


 For this design I tried to forget about aging as she may not have been that haggard as she would of only been 40/50. but in the way she had been living she wouldn't have been in the best physical state so I wanted to portray deep bags under her eyes contoured cheek bones and slightly dirty looking.

Mrs Haversham practice

For this I used illamsqua skin base foundation mixed with kryolan foundation pallet I blended it down the neck and ears then I set the look with illamasqua finishing loose powder.I  also added foundation to the eyebrows.I used Kryolan eye shadow pallet to colour the cheeks and head using the colour 'caraway' to give the skin a dirty grey look then I started adding bags under the eyes using Lavender and shallot also slight touch of black pepper blending out wards in a circular motion. I then applied eye lash glue to the lips and around the nose to create dry looking skin and falkey lips. For the lips I did layers of glue then added tissue to create the flakey look. the using the colour of  my models foundation applied over the lips. I then added supra colour red and purple to make the lips look sore and using a tweezer pulled some of the glue apart to give more of a flakey effect. I really liked the look of this and feel that I will do the same look for the complexion keeping the nose area the same but I will adapt the lips to make them the pigments stand out more and look painful. 

For the hair I Tried to do a rolled bun look with messy curly hair Firstly I sectioned the hair and started rolling the pieces of hair with my fingers pinning in place I didnt like the end result of the bun so I decided to change it in the end into rolls at the back of the hair going into a pony tail. I left a segment at the front so the fringe could come down and a center parting I then curled the rest of the hair back combed and brushed out to give a messy used hair style appearance. For my final Im going to adapt the look and make it slightly more neater as she once would of had an immaculate hair style.

Consultation forms

Consultation forms should be done  before working on a client so that you know exactly what conditions you are working with also to check that you are able to carry out the processes you want to and use the products you want to. A consultation should include the following:

Name of Client

Hair type- e.g. thick, fine, curly, straight, frizzy, course

Length of hair

Extensions or not

Natural or coloured hair

Do they have any allergies?

Check for contra-indications

Are they on any medication?
Are you wearing contact lenses?

A contra- indication is something that may prevent the treatment form being carried out or the treatment may need to be adapted because of the contra- indication.

Check for head lice- The most common places for head lice are behind the ears and at the nape of the neck.

Throughout the treatment check for contra-actions which are bad reactions to products or processes such as an allergic reaction which may cause symptoms such as erythema, swelling and pain. If a contra- action occurs stop the process and remove the products straight away and if serious advise the client to seek medical advice.

When working on the hair be careful of any piercings that the client may have, either avoid the area they are in, be careful to work around piercings or ask the client to remove piercings.

Example consultation:

Name: Nicole

Hair type:  medium thickness, dry  and waved hair one layer

Length of hair: medium length hair 

Natural or coloured hair: Bleached and dyed

Extensions or not: No

Eye Colour: brown

Age: 23

Do they have any allergies? No

Are they on any medication? No

Are you wearing contact lenses? No

Contra-indications: No

Head lice: No

Notes: hair is dry due to bleaching

Name: Anna

Hair type: medium thickness, curly

Length of hair: long, past shoulders

Natural or coloured hair: natural brown

Extensions or not: No

Eye Colour: brown

Age: 20

Do they have any allergies? No

Are they on any medication? No

Are you wearing contact lenses? No

Contra-indications: No

Head lice: No

Name: Isley

Hair type: thin, straight

Length of hair: long past shoulders

Natural or coloured hair: natural

Extensions or not: no

Eye Colour: green

Age:20

Do they have any allergies? No

Are they on any medication? No

Are you wearing contact lenses? No

Contra-indications: No

Head lice: No

Burns

Firstly I applied  Tuplast onto the skin blending it outwards to make it look more realistic  with my supra colour pallet from Kryolan I then started to paint on to my burn I used pinky colours at the center going into  black I used a cotton bud to smooth the outer areas then added fake blood from this photo the burn didnt look fresh and realistic so I then added glycerin to make it look shinny which completely changed the apperance and made it look more realistic overall I'm really pleased with the out come. I think I should practice on blending and going away from theatrical looking makeup and more realistic.

Cuts, scratches, bruises and the perfect black eye- add more

Products you can use:

Moulding Wax- can be used for wounds but also to fill in piercings.

Latex

Wax- Plasto or Cine wax

Tuplast- old scaring

Collodion- non flexible

Barrier cream- use under collodian to protect skin

Bruise Palettes- Ben nye palette

Wound filler- gives the effect of fibrous flesh to the inside of fake cuts

Fake blood

Sealer- used to cover wax

Old age stipple- creases to look like thin wrinkled skin more than latex

Fake pus

Duo eyelash glue- use to look like dry skin

Spatulas- good to apply products with and to mould products

Vaseline- used for black eyes or rashes to make them look swollen

Sprayed water or clear gel can be used to look like sweat.

Coloured hairspray mixed with water can look like mud/dirt.

Tear stick- .

Ellisons Fullers Earth can be mixed with water to create dirt.

Scrapped soap can be used to create dandruff.

Brill cream can be used to create greasy hair.

Dry shampoo to create grey hair 

For this I used eyelash glue and layered it in certain areas once it had dried with a tweezers I areas lifting it to create a lifting of the skin apperance the I applied the colour I used for the foundation ( illamasqua skin base mixed with kryolan supra colour foundation) to make it blend into the skin  then with a small brush I started adding supra colour to create a 'painful appearance'  I do like the effect eyelash glue has its easy to use and very quick (depending on amount of layers) although it still is quicker than latex  and I had alot of fun using it as I never thought about creating cuts and sore skin with it.

Scratches

For this Look Firstly I scraped the different colors of red from my supra colour pallet for the part on the forehead I decided to use a soft sponge and dab over the area It did look too strong and slightly theatrical so I decided to take a tissue and wipe some of the color off then Which made it look more realistic then I added some yellow and purple. blended the colours together with my sponge until I was pleased with my look.

For the scratch on the cheek bone I firstly chose the red I wanted from my supra colour pallet Then using a stipple sponge and with a quick motion dragged it across the cheek I feel this worked well for a scratch look although I feel it looked more realistic as I didnt use straight on the skin Firstly I dabbed my sponge for the colour not to be as strong as I feel it looks more realistic now.

Im pleased with my scratches so far I feel that I could experiment further and try out different types of scratches.
                                                                             

Scratches with eyelash glue
I like the effect this has Firstly I used eyelash glue then I used to create a base skin, covered it with illamasqua skin base foundation, picked certain parts to raise the skin, powered with mac loose powder then used supra colour and a sponge to dabb on the colours then tidied it up with a small brush
I really liked this technique its fast and gives a realistic effect and would defiantly use this technique again. I would try and experiment further and try adding different colour tones to see what different effects it has.



















Bruises and perfect black eye.

For this black eye I used eyeshadows from my Kryolan eyeshadow pallet for this, I used the colours '                             ' firstly I used the lightest colours building up layers to get to the darker tones I blended from the crease of the eye outwards. This was my first attempt of creating a blackeye although I like the look but I feel it could be improved by adding more yellow tones throughout but I thought it would look too theatrical I do think I could of gone stronger with the pink pigments at the top but overall I'm pleased with the look it could be improved but my favorite aspect is the bottom blending outwards.

Yellow, red, black and purple are good colours to use to create a realistic black eye but you can use the other colours if needed. Powder over the top if you want the bruising to look old.Use red eye drops if you want the eye area to look blood shot.

                 Black eye using supra colour
For this I used  red, yellow and purple. I preferred using Supra colour instead of eyeshadow as it gives it a more realistic fresh black eye look. I'm really pleased with look I feel that I could of adapted it slightly more and added a darker colour in the crease of the eye I started with the red the added the yellow and purple blending the clours together trying not to make it look too theatrical although I feel it turned out well.

                                                                                       






  Cuts.

For this I used Gelatin to create it firstly I cut off a piece then I put it in a bowl and then micorwaved it for  5minuets or untill I felt it was liquid enough then I applied it to the skin making sure it wasnt too hot for my model. with a spatular I spread it across the skin trying to blend it as evenly as I could. I did find it difficult as you have to work fast because I had to re heat it a few times. Once it had set i started playing around creating ditches I then started painting with my supra colour pallet adding darker tones with in the center blending out wards
Then I applied fake blood which gave my cut a shine and made it look more 3D. I feel that I could of improved on blending in the cut.

Cuts In theatre productions are usually made from wax as its faster to apply and easier to take but with that theres the downfall of it falling off alot quicker.

A cut I did out side of uni, I used liquid latex I did this by creating layers of it drying it on cold with  the hair dryer then building it up with tissue paper. Coloured it with supra colour and added some fake blood.

Dirty Hands

Firstly get your model to spread there fingers apart and bend their wrist so that the products spreads across the creases of the skin and no where is left then moisturizer in.Spray coloured hairspray onto the hands I Used D41 Kryolan hairspray in dark brown. Then Spray water onto the hand and rub the hairspray into the skin and under the nails. To help bled the product in more I added moisturizer to help blend the product in. I feel it is an effective technique although next time I would like to have the product look stronger so I wont add as much moisturizer.